Our topic today is – making music and using electronic devices for that. To make less noise during the repetition, especially if you are situated in a resident or office area, one should probably abandon natural drums and use electronic drums to achieve the silence.
But … what we have here, is the Alesis DM6 set. While the sensors are relatively good, the brain of DM6 certainly isn’t. The possibilities to regulate and trim are inferior, compared to professional units. Then an idea arised – let’s connect Alesis DM6 pads to somewhat more professional. We had an honourable vintage Alesis D4 rack module collecting dust in the shack. The device has 12 universal trigger inputs and rather versatile menu controls to set the sensitivity and cross-talk. Here are the manuals for Alesis D4, the owner manual and the service manual (I still hope you’ll never need it).
In these days, if a task does exist, then Google should find some solution on it. There is a brilliant source on the topic – the alesisdrummer.com website. Ben has already determined the pinout for the wiring harness. We re-checked it – Ben’s work is correct indeed. The only difference with our situation: our Hi-Hat pedal only had mono jack on it and not stereo as shown on most pictures (note the blue wire!) and as described in Ben’s initial post (pin 2). Well, there probably are different pedals in use…
What we did is right opposite to what Ben did. Ben made an inexpensive DrumRocker kit working with the Alesis DM6 brain. What we were doing, was to to exclude DM6 brain and let sensors trigger another drum synth.
The solution we implemented could be described as a connection table:
Presented as a schematics (DB-25 female connector numbered as looked from behind, from the soldering side):
The cable set (to exclude the DM6 brain) was built on a PCB holding the DB-25 female connector and ten cables. The snare sensor of DM6 has two zones (rim+center) thus the “stereo” signal need to be splitted). A box of a suitable size was found.
The solution was tested and (after a tracing error repaired) found fully working. Of course, it is possible to use straight 1/4″ cables from DM6 pad set to D4. However, to switch the brains fast, a joint cross cable is probably more efficient. It should be noted that the original fastening screws of DM6 connector are unusable until one implements a bit wider box.
Some more pictures:
A way was found to fasten cables to permit changes while remaining satisfactory sturdy:
This is the corrected pattern for PCB. Please do not forget to mirror it and to resize to the real size during the printing phase! The pattern was compiled manually, using Gimp. Better redraw it using Eagle or some CAD 😉 Click on the picture to get the max resolution.
About these ads? I don’t care. Really! There are no free lunches.